手表 |2022年5月26日上午6:00



彼得·達茲利(Peter Dazeley)通過蓋蒂

If you’re wondering whether it’s a good thing that the bezel on that vintage watch you’re considering is “ghosted” or whether that means it’s already dead, or whether that “tropical” dial means it’s only suitable for jungle treks or Bali’s beaches, or why it seems a “double red” is so much pricier than a merely “single red,” then welcome to the esoteric world of watch dealer’s lingo.

“Like all trade languages, it started from dealer to dealer, as a way of working out whether a watch was really of any real rarity and over time it’s been adopted by collectors in the know,” explains David Silver, of the Vintage Watch Company, London, and owner of the world’s largest private collection of Rolexes. “The technical aspects of watches can be harder to explain, because so much of what it refers to what you can’t see. But the great thing about most vintage watch dealer terminology is that is so visual — it’s very expressive.”


不是,銀色的壓力,隻是某種煙幕。他說:“我認為曾經有一個懷疑,當經銷商將其使用給客戶時,那就是銷售胡說八道。”“但實際上,這反映出一隻手表具有一定的微小差異,或者是某些表盤,表圈和發光效果的組合,這確實使該手表是一次性的。他們並不意味著這一定是世界上最稀有的手表。它們反映了隻有那隻手表才活著的生活 - 由於暴露於陽光,熱量,水分,隨著時間的流逝而發生了變化。”

當然,當您開始使用專業語言將任何消費者物體的優點(汽車,藝術品,一件珠寶)的優點置於焦點時,銀牌的承認,這可以使這些優點更加多一點理想,因此推高價格。The unofficial if affectionate naming of certain watches, old and new — think of Zenith’s Chronomaster A3818 as the “Superman Blue,” for the color it shares with the Man of Steel’s cape, or various Seiko models being dubbed the Tuna Can, Turtle, Samurai or Arnie — has a similar result. Not for nothing, says Silver, are the watch-crazy Italians notorious for their preponderance for nicknaming certain models.

“The reality is that a lot of the effects that this language describes in vintage watches are those that the next person might just think look tatty,” Silver says with a laugh, conceding that the visible effects of wear and tear — the watch world’s equal, perhaps, to the “whiskering,” “honeycombing” and “roping” of denim-heads — are not for everybody. “If even Rolex gets hold of a watch with text on the dial that’s bleeding out, it will see that as a fault to be corrected. But the language really helps customers see what you’re referring to — especially when you show a vintage watch alongside a modern counterpart — and then they can decide for themselves whether that is worth the premium.”

因此,如果您的老式手表經銷商指出那種可愛的“南瓜” Lume或那個“百事可樂”擋板,請不要站在那兒,想知道他是在為您提供午餐。如果他注意到“輪盤賭”日期,他不是要您下注。不過,他可能會嚴重誘使您拿一些認真的現金。為了幫助您瀏覽所有術語,我們將指南彙總為以下一些術語。


但是,任何帶有油漆基於油漆的表盤(例如用石頭或漆製成的表盤)隨著時間的推移而淡出的任何手表都會消失正確地“褪色”。但是,經銷商和收藏家有時會提到最初的紅色擋板已經褪色的特定陰影,特別是“紫紅色”,即1960年代/​​70年代70年代勞力士GMT的Bezel在某些條件下的束縛。甚至是“根啤酒” - 是的,淺棕色的陰影。


這引用了潛水手表邊框上更具體的淡入淡出的淡化,該片段最初是黑色的,最終變成了灰色至淺灰色的獨特陰影 - 通常是支付數字的可讀性,如果這對您很重要。同樣,這是光和溫度的效果,西爾弗說:“非常罕見,因此這不是一個自由使用的術語。”其他黑色邊框淡入海軍或棕色的陰影,但交易尚未為此造成貢獻。




這通常是指勞力士體育模型圈中的藍色和紅色,並且非常接近軟飲料罐使用的陰影。Silver說:“將一個標誌性品牌與另一個品牌組合在一起很有趣 - 將廉價產品與豪華產品聯係起來有一個舌頭方麵,這是全球守望界認可的術語。”為什麼這樣?因為與等待(等待)不同,因此仍在製作百事可樂表盤,黑色和紅色的“可口可樂”擋板。經銷商和收藏家似乎都喜歡為手表創建另類的顏色參考 - 一個帶有表盤或表圈的綠色陰影?當然,那是“星巴克”模型。


如果有人暗示老式觀察世界隻是一個肛門,那將是他們需要的所有證據。勞力士的第一個Seadweller模型在表盤上帶有兩行紅色文本,而不是某些(現在是老式)潛艇的模型,它們隻有一個 - 因此,前者被稱為“雙紅色”,後者是“單一紅色”。或者,就此而言,某些代托納型號的字母“大紅色”。“紅色隻是勞力士的標誌性色彩,” Silver解釋說。“在勞力士表盤上有一些紅色,並且更容易出售。”




A term may long be out-of-date, or culturally limited in its reach (ask most Europeans what color root beer is and they won’t have a clue), but that doesn’t stop the vintage watch market from hanging on to it. Enter, for example, “JPS,” used to describe a color combination of black and gold, often in reference to a Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona. Why “JPS”? That’s a reference to John Player Specials, a long defunct British brand of cigarette, which sponsored a Formula One Lotus team through the 1970s, with the cars in its signature black and gold livery. Well, you did ask.




有沒有想過為什麼今天的製表師有時會在其手表表盤上給出一些溫暖的棕褐色色調上的發光材料?這就是模仿年齡對液體的影響 - 隨著時間的流逝,它變成了手表貿易認為類似南瓜的東西的特色陰影。Silver指出,許多製造商,包括勞力士(Rolex),永遠不會設計新的手表,以這種方式人工看起來像是古老的。但是,如果手表恰好看起來很舊,因為它是,那就拿到饑餓的收藏家。